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Living in Portugal means I have zero excuses not to explore it properly. I retired at 42 after moving my family of four to move to Portugal, I told myself we were going to actually live here, not just exist here.
I built location and financial freedom through investing and growing my Etsy print on demand business, and the whole point of that freedom was to wake up on a Tuesday and say, “let’s go.”
So when the opportunity came up to spend a few nights at Penha Longa Resort in Sintra, we went. Quickly.
I want to be upfront: this is a real review from someone who actually stayed there, ate there, and drank port in the lobby like the very fancy person I have always wanted to be. I am going to tell you what was spectacular, what could use a little updating, and why I am already mentally planning our next stay.
Getting to Penha Longa from Lisbon
One of the things that makes this resort so genuinely practical is how close it is to the city. From central Lisbon, you are looking at roughly a 20-minute drive. From the airport, it is maybe 30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic, and you can grab an Uber, a Bolt, or pre-book a private transfer.
Get Transfer is great option as they operate globally, and especially if you are planning to travel from Sintra to Porto, or the Algarve and do not want to rent a car or take the train.
The drive in through the gated estate is its own experience. You pass through this beautiful, sprawling property where you can see the golf course stretching out to one side and the Monastery of Saint Jerome of Penha Longa sitting right there in the middle of it all.
The monastery dates back to the 14th century. That is not a decorative detail. It is a real, standing piece of Portuguese history sitting in the middle of a five-star resort, and you can actually take guided tours of it.
The whole approach sets a tone before you have even made it to the front desk.
Checking In: Champagne on Arrival, Yes Thank You!
I am a sucker for a welcome drink. I fully admit this. There is something about arriving at a hotel and being handed a glass of champagne that makes my nervous system say, “okay, we are safe, we are in good hands, everything is going to be fine.”
The Penha Longa Resort did exactly that.
They allowed us to check in very early (like noon), which if you have traveled with kids you know is worth its weight in gold.
The staff were warm, and genuinely helpful and welcoming. We got a thorough orientation of everything on the property: restaurants, spa options, the kids club, the pools, golf, heritage walks, the monastery tours.
It was a lot to take in, but the kind of a lot that makes you realize you probably need at least a week.
This resort is not one thing. It is a wellness retreat, a golf resort, a family resort, and a food destination all at once, and it actually delivers on all of it.
The whole check-in experience felt considered. Someone had thought through what guests actually need to know, and they presented it in a way that was organized but not overwhelming.
The rooms: spacious, forest-facing, and almost perfect
We stayed in a Deluxe Room with a King Size Bed. Our room had a balcony with a beautiful view of the surrounding greenery. It was incredibly lush and I instantly wanted to take deep breaths when I sat out there.
Most rooms at Penha Longa have balconies, and it makes a real difference. Every morning I made coffee and sat outside listening to birds while looking out into the forest. That is not a sentence I expected to be writing about a hotel stay, but I am happy I get to do so.
The rooms are very spacious. Not “spacious for a hotel” spacious. Actually spacious, with room to breathe, spread out, and feel like a human being rather than a sardine with a luggage rack.
The beds were comfortable, the quality of linens was evident, and the overall vibe was calm and quiet. We heard nothing from neighboring rooms or hallways.
The bathroom was large and luxurious. Although it was stunning, I do want to be honest here though: some of the fixtures and finishes in the bathrooms showed their age a little.
Everything was clean, everything worked, but you could tell that certain details had not been updated in a while. For a resort at this price point in 2026, a bathroom refresh would bring things fully in line with what guests are paying for.
That said, it did not ruin anything. It is a note, not a dealbreaker. I plan to go back…a lot.
The pools, the gym, and the adults-only zone I needed more than I knew
The pool situation at Penha Longa is well thought out for all types of guests. There are multiple pools: indoor, outdoor, and an adults-only section that I want to light a candle for because it is exactly what you need at a resort popular with families.
I have two small children, so I can say that.
The adults-only area overlooks the forest with an infinity pool, and it has a serene, quiet energy that is hard to find at a resort that also has a thriving kids club and a game room for older kids that was well appointed. Kids of all ages will be fully entertained.
The kids club is beautiful. If you are traveling with children, this resort thought about you. There is also a large playground on the property. Kids that are occupied and happy during vacation means that parents can also be occupied and happy, which is the real luxury here.
The gym is enormous. I say this as someone who usually glances at hotel gyms and walks away. This one was the kind of gym where you run out of excuses.
Actually, it is not just a gym, it is a Wellness Center. It is well-equipped, well-maintained, and has enough space that you never feel like you are waiting for a machine.
It truly just kept going. There were several different rooms, cardio room with weights, studio room, a yoga room. The Wellness Center and spa truly make this resort one of the best wellness retreats in Portugal.
The facilities here genuinely feel like they were designed for people who want a full reset, not just a weekend away.
The spa: go in with a clear schedule and zero plans to rush out
The spa at Penha Longa is something I am going to keep coming back to. And I mean that literally, because I am already thinking about when we can go back specifically for a longer spa day.
The treatment menu is extensive. You can book facials, including the Diamond Energy Facial and the Diamond Life Ritual, which sound indulgent in the best way and feel like it too.
There are collagen treatments, various body wraps, and multiple styles of massage. There are also bespoke rituals that you can design around your specific needs, which is the kind of thing that makes a spa feel personal rather than just transactional.
There is a entirely separate spa complex away from the Wellness Center. It is designed for people who need to actually decompress, and it delivers on that literally as soon as you step inside.
Dining at Penha Longa: you will not need to leave the property for food, and you will not want to
Let me walk you through what we ate because food is why I named my blog what I did.
The wine tasting with Diego
Before we even sat down for dinner the first night, we did a private wine tasting with Diego, the resort’s sommelier. This was not the kind of wine tasting where someone pours six glasses and rattles off tasting notes while you nod along.
Diego actually taught us how to taste wine.
He walked us through identifying grape varieties, understanding what you are smelling and tasting, and why certain wines present the way they do.
I asked him how to identify a cheaper wine, and he went and grabbed a cheap bottle and walked us through the differences in taste and smell. It was such a master class, but with wine!
It was one of those experiences that sticks with you.
After the tasting, Diego invited us to the lobby for the evening port ritual of chopping off the top of a bottle of port wine.
This traditional method, often called opening Port with Port tongs or Port tong service, uses heated tongs to remove the neck of an old Port bottle when the cork is too fragile to pull cleanly.
The tongs are heated, clamped around the bottle neck, and then the glass is cooled so the neck breaks cleanly. In French, the word “pince” can mean pliers, pincers, or tongs, which is why you may sometimes see similar tong-related language used around this style of service.
It is like sabering a champagne bottle, but controlled, deliberate, and dramatic in a quiet, luxurious way.
Diego does this every evening in the lobby, and guests get to watch and then receive a complimentary glass of port. It is the kind of hotel moment that becomes a core memory.
We stood there, port glasses in hand, completely won over before we even made it to dinner.
Dinner at Arola
After the port ritual we went straight to Arola, the tapas restaurant on the property. The space itself is striking. It feels modern and sleek in a way that reminded me of walking into a very well-designed Apple store, except the lighting is warmer and the food is infinitely better. The design is clean, contemporary, and confident.
The food matched. Tapas with clean, precise flavors. Every dish landed. We ate too much and did not regret a single bite. The crab bao was our favorite!
The Lab, Midori, Mercato, and Spices
The Lab is Penha Longa’s Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant. You’ll want to make a reservation beforehand.
The food is creative, the presentations are considered, and the experience is worth booking a table specifically around if you are planning a special occasion.
We also ate at Mercato, which had excellent food in a more relaxed setting, and the breakfast spread there was abundant.
The resort also has Midori for Japanese cuisine and Spices for something with a bit more global flavor.
Between those options, I genuinely cannot think of a reason to leave the property for meals. And I say this as someone who loves going out and exploring local restaurants. Penha Longa just makes it very easy to stay put.
Walking the property: cork oak trees, foxes, and a 14th-century monastery
The grounds at Penha Longa sit alongside the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, which means you are surrounded by real forest. Cork oak trees, olive trees, birds you will hear before you see them, and the occasional fox trotting along like it owns the place, which it kind of does.
The resort offers guided heritage walks across the property, and I strongly recommend booking one.
You get to learn about the history of the land, including the Monastery of Saint Jerome of Penha Longa, which was originally built in the late 14th century under King João I and later became a summer retreat for Portuguese royalty.
Walking through the monastery grounds with that context is something else entirely.
Even without a guided walk, just wandering the property is genuinely enjoyable. The golf course is beautiful if that is your thing, and the 27-hole course here is well regarded. Even if you do not play, it adds to the sense of scale and space. This is a big, beautiful piece of land, and it feels that way.
A quick note on traveling to Sintra with kids
If you have been wondering whether a resort like this works with children, the answer is yes, very much so. The kids club is superb.
The playground in the middle of the property is large and surrounded by greenery.
The family pool areas are great. And because there is an adults-only pool zone, you actually get both experiences in one stay: the family moments and the quiet ones.
Penha Longa is genuinely one of the few luxury properties I have stayed at where the family experience and the adults-only experience feel equally well thought out.
What you should know before you book
Penha Longa is a Marriott Autograph Collection property, so if you have Marriott Bonvoy points saved up, this is an excellent place to spend them. If you have the Chase Sapphire Reserve or Chase Sapphire Preferred credit cards, Marriot is a points transfer partner.
The property sits on about 200 hectares of land within the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, so the setting is not manufactured. It is real forest, real hills, and a real historic estate.
Room categories include Deluxe Rooms, Junior Suites, and full Suites, and if you can manage the upgrade to a suite, the extra space is genuinely worth it for longer stays or family trips.
Most rooms face the garden or forest, and the balconies are a consistent feature that makes a meaningful difference in how you experience the property morning and evening.
Golf packages are available for those who want to plan a dedicated golf trip, and the resort has hosted professional tournaments, so the course is maintained to a serious standard.
One practical tip: the property is large. If you are traveling with anyone who has mobility concerns or you are carrying a lot between buildings, it is worth asking about internal transportation options when you check in. The staff are helpful about this kind of logistics.
Final Thoughts
I moved my family to Portugal because I believed life could feel this way all the time: slow mornings, beautiful surroundings, good food, and the freedom to actually be present for it. Penha Longa is basically Portugal handing you that feeling in concentrated form for a long weekend.
Is it perfect? Almost. The bathroom fixtures in some rooms genuinely could use updating to match the price point. But that is a single note in an otherwise incredibly strong stay.
The service was warm and personal. The food was excellent across every restaurant we tried. The spa was restorative.
The grounds were beautiful in a way that felt real rather than manicured. And the port opening ritual in the lobby with Diego is one of those hotel moments I will be telling people about for years.
We are going back. Multiple times. I already told my family this is our new go-to for a Lisbon-area escape, and I stand by that completely.
If you are planning a trip to Portugal and you want to experience the Sintra hills without roughing it in any way, Penha Longa Resort belongs on your list. Book it, pack light, and plan to stay longer than you think you need to.
Portugal Travel Planning Guide
🚑 Should I buy travel insurance for Portugal?
It is strongly recommended. Non residents do not automatically receive free public healthcare, although private healthcare is available. Travel insurance covers emergencies, delays, and medical visits. If you require a Schengen visa, insurance is mandatory. Visitors Coverage is a highly trusted and recommended choice.
💳 Will my debit card or credit card work in Portugal, and do I need cash?
Most major credit and debit cards work in Portugal, including Visa, Mastercard, and many travel cards from US and UK banks. Some smaller cafés, markets, and rural spots still prefer cash, so carry a little on hand. To avoid foreign transaction fees, cards like the Chase Sapphire Preferred or Reserve are excellent options. For ATM withdrawals and currency exchange, use a Wise card. Wise usually provides better exchange rates than traditional banks and is widely accepted at Portuguese ATMs and anywhere debit and credit cards are accepted.
📲 Will my phone work in Portugal?
Many major carriers offer roaming plans, but costs vary. For affordable data, purchase a local SIM from Vodafone or MEO or use an eSIM like Airalo. Public wifi exists but is not always reliable, so a local data plan is ideal.
🚙💨 Is it safe to rent a car in Portugal?
Yes. Renting a car is one of the best ways to explore Portugal. Roads are well maintained. Expect toll highways and narrow streets in older villages. Automatic cars are limited, so book early. I recommend using Discover Cars to find the most reputable rental car company. Just filter for the company with the best reviews.
💧 Can you drink tap water in Portugal?
Yes. Tap water is safe throughout Lisbon, Porto, the Algarve, and most populated regions. In remote rural areas water systems may vary, so check locally if you are unsure. Many visitors prefer a filtered bottle because the mineral taste can be stronger in some areas, though generally safe.
🏩 Best way to book accommodations in Portugal
I use Booking.com and Agoda for hotels. For unforgettable, luxury stays, I highly recommend Plum Guide for your stay. VRBO also works incredibly well.
✈️ Best site to search for flights to Portugal
Skyscanner and Google Flights provide reliable fare tracking for Lisbon, Porto, and Faro. Prices vary significantly by season, with summer being the highest.
🎫 Do I need a visa for Portugal?
US, UK, and most EU passport holders do not need a visa for short tourist stays within the 90-day Schengen limit. Stays longer than 90 days require a visa arranged before arrival.
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